Fake Cartier is among the most active brands of 2021. The watch division of the Group’s strong brand has invested in several areas: range extension, new technologies, vintage collections, fine watchmaking. The French brand aims to intensify its presence in the sector and attract more and more enthusiasts in all market segments. Among the novelties, the Pasha Chronograph is an eagerly awaited novelty after the debut of the time-only model, while the Cartier Vintage collection aims at the most demanding collectors, attracting them to the boutiques. Tank Must makes its debut and the Cloche de Cartier returns. Finally, Santos Dumont welcomes new models in a limited series and Ballon Bleu is presented for the first time in the 40 mm diameter size. There is a lot to talk about, and we have excluded the high-end watchmaking models with precious stones and those for women.
Pasha de Cartier Chronograph
Although the novelties also include a 30 mm variant of the time-only Pasha, the most anticipated novelty was the Pasha de Cartier Chronograph. The new chronograph confirms the exceptional cleanliness of the time only; all the new Pashas are more contemporary and less affected than those belonging to the previous generation; Design manager Marie-Laure Cérède has preserved the purity of time alone and the brand has crafted a chronograph of perceived high quality, above all.
At 41mm wide and just under 12mm thick, the new chronograph is decidedly sporty, waterproof to 100 meters and has a unidirectional rotating diving bezel with a superlative click and some of the best I’ve ever experienced.
Powered by the chrono caliber 1904-CH MC developed and assembled in-house, it is in my opinion superb in the 18k yellow gold variant, and a direct reference to the 80s; it is less so in the all-steel version because I think the bracelet has too homologated a design. Gem: by removing the crown protection, you access a plaque on which you can engrave your initials. Prices are to be confirmed.
Cartier Prive
After Tank Asymétrique, Cloche de Cartier returns. The watch with a bell-shaped case is as much a part of Cartier’s history as, for example, the original Santos: the first Cloche watch dates back to 1920. It is part of the high-end time-only offering and is therefore available exclusively in gold ( white or yellow) and platinum with “chemin de fer” minute track and Roman numerals. The case measures 37.15mm by 28.75mm and features the 1917 MC manual winding mechanical movement with 38 hours of autonomy when fully wound.
Each of the three versions is offered in a unique edition of one hundred copies; the platinum variant is the most attractive and closest to the original version as far as I’m concerned.
In addition to the time-only proposal, Cartier adds, as per tradition, a skeletonized edition available in 18k rose gold and two editions in platinum, with or without diamonds. In this case, it features the finely skeletonized caliber 9626 with bridges made, as per tradition, in the shape of Roman numerals.
Santos Dumont XL
The Santos Dumont XL hand-wound collection was one of the most pleasant surprises of 2020; Cartier extends its success with two limited series collections. The limited edition of 100 pieces in platinum aims to repeat the success of the original version, which for me is unsurpassed because it features the same dial with pomme hands and Roman numerals as the first Santos Dumont in platinum.
Presented in a blue lacquered wooden box with cufflinks, the Santos Dumont Precious Set is a collector’s package. The watch has a wave pattern on the dial and Arabic numerals with blue hands and a blue alligator leather strap. Alongside this version, Cartier offers a second edition in steel and gold, again with Arabic numerals and a wave motif. On both, the caseback is decorated with references to Alberto Santos–Dumont’s flying machines.
On the steel and rose gold model, limited to 500 pieces, the “Flying Machine n°19” is shown, in fact the full name is Cartier Santos Dumont XL “No.19”. The Flying Machine n°19 was an evolution of the “Le Demoiselle”. The Platinum version is instead inspired by the “Guide Rope Maritime”. The two-tone Santos Dumont XL not only introduces Arabic numerals but adds a bright red hue to the track minute track and Cartier logo, offering a sportier alternative to the standard, two-tone, Roman numeral collection.